Paella – the TRUE Paella

Especially for Deedee Mitchell and Charles Price and Victor (Taste of Oregon): 

Yesterday, Felipe Gomez Ferrandiz drove us out of the city on a cold, softly rainy afternoon to the Spanish countryside … to El Palmar (The Oasis), which is in the middle of vast rice fields. The purpose was to experience True Paella (pa A ya). It was ordered in advance, as it takes at least 2 hours to prepare. This restaurant, L’Establiment, known for its quality of food, is reputed to be The Place for traditional paella – a specialty of Valencia. Even Valencians come here to enjoy it.

The base of True Paella is a specific variety of rice (bomba), which comes from the surrounding fields that, when cooked, is about the size of a sesame seed, very small compared to rice I’m used to eating at home. It is served in a large round iron skillet and meant to be eaten straight from the skillet, scraping the bottom for the crusty bits (soccarat), mixing it with the uncrunchy bits – especially tasty. 

Traditional paella is cooked with rabbit (1 or 2 large chunks/person), chicken (same proportion), about half a dozen snails per person, broad beans (garrofo), and a local version of runner beans (judia tavella). Mix in rosemary and saffron. Bomba rice is especially absorbent and soaks up the flavor of the meat and veggies, and according to Felipe, leaves the meat rather tasteless. (I took Felipe’s word about that part. Rabbit??? Snails, no garlic?) 

What I can tell you is that paella made with this kind of rice and this mix of flavors is really, totally a gastronomic, tastebud delight. YUMMMMMMM.

PS  L'Establiment is right on a water channel that flows into the rice fields, as well as into La Albufera, a huge lake. Very scenic, cozy (fireplace) – a perfect place to be on a rainy winter day. Life is good.